четвер, 13 січня 2011 р.

Steam-driven winners | Life and style | The Guardian

There's nothing new about steaming: it's an efficient and healthy cooking method that has been around for centuries. It helps preserve nutrients and maintains the colour and texture of delicate foods such as vegetables and fish. Traditionalists use tiers of metal or bamboo baskets stacked over a pan of water on the hob, but now there's a new breed of dedicated electric multi-tiered steamer with built-in timer competing for a share of the healthy-cooking market.

To find out whether these gadgets are worth their storage space, the Good Housekeeping Institute's test kitchen was temporarily transformed into a steam room. Seven electric models were assessed and compared with a traditional two-tier stainless steel steamer and a bamboo steamer that sits in a wok or on top of a saucepan. Following each manufacturer's instructions and timings, the Institute's testers cooked: a complete meal for four consisting of new potatoes, salmon steaks and selection of green vegetables; a steamed pudding (to assess long, slow cooking); rice; hard-boiled eggs; and chicken breasts with vegetables. Cooking times, ease of use, convenience, safety in use, cleaning and instructions were also taken into account to give a score out of 100.

Overall we were impressed by the performance of the non-electric methods, particularly the bamboo steamer. Cooking times were generally shorter, and they require less maintenance than electric models, although there's less usable steaming space. Most electric steamers can steam four salmon steaks or chicken breasts; the non-electrics and the Hinari can only cope with three in one tier.

All the electric steamers have three tiers or baskets, a rice bowl and drip tray for collecting condensation and food juices, and a timer that turns them off at the end of the cooking period you set. All but the stainless-steel Russell Hobbs have transparent plastic baskets, which were awkward to clean because food became trapped in their ridged and perforated bases. Models with removable basket bases were easier to clean and more versatile, allowing for foods such as asparagus and tall puddings.

Recommended cooking times varied widely - from 10 to 30 minutes for salmon, for example - and many models lost points because the food ended up overcooked. Only two steamers had digital timers; the rest had dial timers, which were difficult to set accurately.

Technical data:

Three bamboo baskets (18cm diameter x 5cm each deep) plus lid.

Pros:

Excellent cooking performance (88/100). Salmon and chicken were moist and tender and vegetables had a good flavour and texture. Range of different sizes available.

Cons:

You need a pan of the same diameter to fit the steamer or it can be put in a wok. Small capacity. Lack of side handles makes baskets awkward to separate. Not as durable as plastic or metal and harder to clean. Tiers do not stack and so are bulky to store.

Verdict/ stockists:

Great value basic steamer. Widely available from Chinese supermarkets; Typhoon steamer £11 for two x 25cm-diameter tiers from John Lewis.

Technical data:

Pan: stainless steel with aluminium; diameter 18cm; capacity 2.8l; stainless-steel handles; glass lid. Two baskets: stainless steel; 18cm diameter x 8cm deep; stainless steel handles. Oven safe to 180C/Gas 4. Dishwasher-safe.15-year guarantee.

Pros:

Excellent cooking performance (85/100). Can be used on all hob types. Pan can be used for other methods of cooking as well as steaming. Sturdy design and very stable on the hob.

Cons:

Handles became hot in use. Stainless steel soon became badly marked after using, and needs to be cleaned with a proprietary stainless steel cleaner. Lower basket capacity reduced when upper one is on top.

Verdict/ stockists:

Stylish and versatile; good performance. 0151-482 8282; www.meyeruk.com

Technical data:

900 watts. Three different-sized baskets with removable bases. Sixty-minute dial timer. Water gauge. Auto switch-off at end of cooking period. Recipe book. Dishwasher-safe except base unit.

Pros:

Good cooking performance (78/100). Baskets stack for storage. Easy to top up with water. Good instruction and recipe booklets. Steamed pudding cooked faster than by hob steaming. Full tank gives 60 minutes' steaming.

Cons:

Doesn't automatically switch off when it needs refilling and water gauge is not clear. Lid doesn't fit securely, seems to warp in the heat and difficult to remove afterwards. Some of the cooking times given were too long.

Verdict/ stockists:

Technical data:

650 watts. Three different-sized baskets. Sixty-minute dial timer. Water gauge. Auto switch-off at end of cooking period. Recipe book. Dishwasher-safe except base unit.

Pros:

Satisfactory cooking results (63/100). Excellent steamed pudding and moist, tender chicken. Baskets stack inside each other for storage. Comprehensive instructions and useful recipe leaflet.

Cons:

Small baskets - vegetables had to be stacked, impeding steam flow. Basket bases fixed. A lot of steam escaped from lid. Doesn't switch off if water has run dry. Difficult to see water level during steaming and filling hole fiddly. Full tank gives 54 minutes' steaming.

Verdict/ stockists:

Good value if you don't need to steam family-size meals. 020 8787 3111.

Technical data:

650 watts. Three different-sized baskets with removable bases. Sixty-minute dial timer. Water gauge. Auto switch-off at end of cooking period and when water runs out. Recipe book. Dishwasher-safe except base unit.

Pros:

Satisfactory cooking results (65/100). Chicken really moist and tender. Baskets stack inside each other for storage. Instructions give cooking times for each tier. Full tank gives 70 minutes' steaming.

Cons:

Lid only fits snugly on the top basket, annoying if you only want to use one basket. Slow to cook the complete meal - new potatoes weren't fully done at the end of the 25-minute recommended cooking period.

Verdict/ stockists:

Technical data:

900 watts. Three different-sized baskets. Ninety-minute digital timer. Water gauge. Seven pre-set programmes (keep warm, shellfish, eggs, fish, vegetables, chicken and rice). Auto switch-off at end of cooking time and if you forget to add more water. Dishwasher-safe except base unit.

Pros:

Good cooking performance (68/100). Baskets numbered so easy to stack. Digital display clear, timer accurate. Element is concealed. Filter between drip tray and water reservoir protects against limescale. Symbols on base show timings for food categories. Steamer automatically switches to 'keep warm' setting at end of cooking.

Cons:

Baskets have fixed bases. Suggested cooking times are long - rice and cauliflower were overcooked. Full tank gives 50 minutes' steaming.

Verdict/ stockists:

Good performance and useful extra features. 023 9239 2333; www.kenwood.co.uk

Technical data:

1,000 watts. Three baskets. Power-on indicator. Sixty-minute dial timer. Water gauge. Auto switch-off at end of cooking period. Recipe book. Dishwasher-safe except base unit.

Pros:

Satisfactory cooking performance (65/100). Excellent results when cooking a complete meal. Good capacity. Baskets stack inside each other for storage. Easy to top up the water tank during use. Full tank gives 65 minutes' steaming.

Cons:

All baskets are the same size and slot together using a stacking ring between each tier - less convenient with more bits to wash and store. Chrome base unit soon looks grubby with fingermarks. Baskets have fixed bases.

Verdict/ stockists:

Attractive design and good capacity. 01606 836 555; currently Argos only.

Technical data:

2,000 watts. Three different-sized baskets; top basket has removable base. Sixty-minute dial timer. Auto switch-off at end of cooking time and if you forget to add water. Vitamin+ booster button (steamer operates on full power then switches to 650watts when the correct temperature is reached). Dishwasher-safe except for base unit. Transparent water tank.

Pros:

Satisfactory cooking performance (65/100). Useful information on base unit showing suggested cooking times for food categories. Using the Vitamin+ function reduced cooking time (20 minutes instead of 40 minutes for cooking the complete meal, smaller reductions for other foods). Baskets stack for storage.

Cons:

High powered, so uses up water quickly. Full tank gives 52 minutes' steaming.

Verdict/ stockists:

Technical data:

700 watts. Three different-depth stainless-steel baskets. Sixty-minute digital timer. Water gauge. Auto switch-off at end of cooking time and if you forget to add more water.

Pros:

Good cooking results (71/100), particularly chicken and salmon. Very user-friendly instructions. Stable in use. Good capacity. Baskets stack for easy storage. Easy to top up water during steaming. Thermostat switches off if it boils dry during cooking. Full tank gives 60 minutes' steaming.

Cons:

Dishwashing not recommended. Base and baskets get hot in use. Can't see food during cooking except through lid. Fixed basket bases. Stainless steel soon looks grubby with finger- and water-marks during cooking.

Verdict/ stockists:

Stylish with some good safety features, but expensive. 0845 658 9700; www.saltoneurope.com

1. How does an electric steamer work? Multi-tiered electric steamers consist of a water reservoir with a central element, drip tray, one to three tiers or baskets and a lid. As the water boils the steam is channelled up through a funnel into the baskets to cook the food. Condensation and food juices drop down into a drip tray and can be used to flavour sauces. The element needs regular descaling and the tank must not be allowed to boil dry. The Kenwood, Russell Hobbs, Tefal and Morphy Richards switch off automatically when the tank needs refilling.

2. Why do they say steaming is a healthier method of cooking? According to nutritionist Fiona Hunter, it's much healthier, because food has no contact with water. Boiling puts physical stress on the food, tearing and toughening it; here food is cooked by the steam swirling around it, so more water-soluble vitamins (B and C) are retained, although some are lost through heat and a few leach into the cooking liquid. If you keep the liquid and use it in soups or sauces, nutrient losses will be minimal. It's also a fat-free method of cooking, often suggested for people on a low-calorie diet.

3. Do you have any tips for using a steamer? Times given are generally for steaming using one tier at a time. If using the second and third tiers, add five to 10 minutes for each extra tier. Don't overfill the baskets and leave spaces between items to allow the steam to circulate. If using several tiers, put meat or poultry in the bottom basket so juices don't drip on to food below. Use oven gloves to protect your hands.

4. Which foods are best steamed? Our tests show that vegetables have a more intense flavour and keep their colour better when steamed rather than boiled. But getting the timing right takes trial and error.

Steaming is best for cooking tender items such as fish fillets, mussels and chicken breasts. It is also a useful way of reheating pasta or couscous (but not rice). The moist environment prevents the food from drying out, so no oil is needed.

Next month's test, to be published on July 3, will be portable barbecues. Subscribe to Good Housekeeping and save £5. To order, call 01858 438 844 and quote ref 2795/6. www.goodhousekeeping.co.uk Special offer: Good Housekeeping's One-Pot Cooking contains 100 recipes for people who hate washing up. RRP £14.99; to buy it for £12.99 inc p&p, call 01903 828503 and quote ref C&B 342.

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